Multi-directional focused wave group interactions with a plane beach

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dc.check.date2021-07-23
dc.check.infoAccess to this article is restricted until 24 months after publication by request of the publisher.en
dc.contributor.authorJudge, Frances M.
dc.contributor.authorHunt-Raby, Alison C.
dc.contributor.authorOrszaghova, Jana
dc.contributor.authorTaylor, Paul H.
dc.contributor.authorBorthwick, Alistair G. L.
dc.contributor.funderEngineering and Physical Sciences Research Councilen
dc.contributor.funderHR Wallingford Ltd., UKen
dc.contributor.funderU.K. Coastal Research Facility (UKCRF)en
dc.date.accessioned2019-08-30T15:25:54Z
dc.date.available2019-08-30T15:25:54Z
dc.date.issued2019-07-23
dc.date.updated2019-08-30T15:15:25Z
dc.description.abstractNumerical simulations and laboratory measurements are presented of multi-directional focused wave groups interacting with a plane beach. The numerical model is a two-dimensional-horizontal (2DH) hybrid flow solver, governed by a Boussinesq equation set with enhanced dispersion characteristics pre-breaking, and the nonlinear shallow water equations post-breaking. Waves are introduced into the model via an in-built multi-element piston wavemaker, allowing for complete reproduction of laboratory experiments. A wetting and drying algorithm models shoreline movement in both cross-shore and longshore directions. Predicted free surface motions of the multi-directional focused wave groups are in good agreement with wave gauge data from laboratory experiments previously carried out at the UK Coastal Research Facility (UKCRF) using a linear paddle wave generator. Both phase decomposition into Stokes-like harmonic components and wavelets provide insight into nonlinear interactions as the wave groups propagate up the beach. Free second-order error waves in a multi-directional wave group are smaller than for the corresponding uni-directional case, and spread laterally around the incoming wave group. Of the free error waves generated by linear paddle signals, only the low-frequency second-order error wave affects extreme run-up on the beach. By applying a second-order correction to the paddle signals used to generate a multi-directional wave group, it is shown that, whereas the long error wave causes a significant increase in the maximum run-up, the impact is not as severe as for the uni-directional analogue. Shoaling and run-up of the bound long waves in a spread sea are studied. Examination of the transverse structure of these subharmonic components reveals that sideways spreading in the inner surf zone contributes to reduced run-up in directionally spread groups.en
dc.description.sponsorshipEngineering and Physical Sciences Research Council (EPSRC grants GR/N21741 and GR/N2259)en
dc.description.statusPeer revieweden
dc.description.versionAccepted Versionen
dc.format.mimetypeapplication/pdfen
dc.identifier.articleid103531en
dc.identifier.citationJudge, F. M., Hunt-Raby, A. C., Orszaghova, J., Taylor, P. H. and Borthwick, A. G. L. (2019) 'Multi-directional focused wave group interactions with a plane beach', Coastal Engineering, 152, 103531, (18 pp). doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2019.103531en
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.coastaleng.2019.103531en
dc.identifier.endpage18en
dc.identifier.issn0378-3839
dc.identifier.journaltitleCoastal Engineeringen
dc.identifier.startpage1en
dc.identifier.urihttps://hdl.handle.net/10468/8425
dc.identifier.volume152en
dc.language.isoenen
dc.publisherElsevieren
dc.relation.urihttp://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383918304678
dc.rights© 2019, Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved. This manuscript version is made available under the CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 licence.en
dc.rights.urihttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/en
dc.subjectWave groupen
dc.subjectHydrodynamicsen
dc.subjectCoastal engineeringen
dc.subjectCoastal protectionen
dc.titleMulti-directional focused wave group interactions with a plane beachen
dc.typeArticle (peer-reviewed)en
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